新加坡《优周刊》雜誌飲食男女專欄:大排擋幸福無負擔  


大排擋幸福無負擔
 

記者/柯欣穎 
 

 

 

 

 

 

美味矛盾

 

大排擋”餐館,這樣的稱呼本身就是一個矛盾。大排擋指香港街邊的流動小販攤位,顧客坐小凳子或直接蹲著,看攤主在面前把調味料丟進鉄鑊,看似信手拈來,其實多年的經驗已經嵌入他們的指尖,不需要片刻思考就可以將酸甜苦辣配搭得最完美。燒起大火,食材一丟入,火光“簌”一聲跳起,把攤主都蓋住了,再翻動幾下,就可以從小桌上的圓筒拿出木筷,享受最經濟最平凡的美味。

 

這和正襟危坐、精致高貴的餐館,似乎差十萬八千里。不過“大排擋”餐館就是結合“餐館美味、食閣價位”,才那麼受歡迎。看看寬敞明亮的店面和個個來自香港的廚師陣容,實在難以置信這裡的點心和面食價格最低才2元,還免收服務費和消費稅。難怪這裡常常爆滿,在不久的將來還將擴大面積,並添加多達25樣新菜式。

 

“辛”辣口味

 

“大排擋”餐館正好合了辛曉琪的胃口。她說不喜歡在大飯館吃飯,去香港的時候也盡量抽出時間到大排擋吃美食,被歌迷認出也在所不惜。其實也沒什麼好在意的,反正追求口腹之欲也是明星的“基本人權”之一嘛。她平常吃得清淡,只要有四只腳的東西就不吃,因此在大排擋食物中最“中意”南丫島海鮮和雞蛋面等健康食品,不怕不能保持那雙著名的美腿。

 

由於是北方人(辛曉琪祖籍中國遼北),她小時候吃的主要是辛媽媽親手做的面食,甚至可以一口包子一口蒜就算一餐。她還說:“雖都說台灣東西好吃,在新加坡口福也不斷”不說不知,她還特別喜歡印度菜,一說到美國和新加坡的印度菜之間的差別就一改平時的成熟穩重,滿臉興奮地侃侃而談。“大排擋”送上的辣椒也投了她所好,她很認真地説明,自己平常不愛吃辣椒,只有踫到這種腌青椒時才不會放過。

 

 

优推薦

 

姜蔥田雞粥 $8

港式的粥,把米粒都煲得爛爛的,看起來“美白嫩滑”,賣相极佳。田雞分量很令人滿意,煲的火候和時間也非常足夠,讓田雞的美味都滲進粥堙C

 

+辛氏食禪

曉琪嘗了粥後才發現媕Y有田雞,破了自己不吃四只腳的動物的禁忌。不過第一次吃田雞做的粥,對它的鮮甜留下深刻的印象。雖然不能沾口,不過她說田雞肉看起來就知道肯定很嫩很鮮美。

 

 

Cantonese-styled frog leg porridge.

Initially Winnie did not know that this is frog leg porridge until she started digging in.昨天

As she was afraid that she would be allergic to frog leg, she did not try the delicacy,

but still commented that the ingredient looks fresh.

 

 

 

過橋豆腐 $4

這裡的豆腐可是店埵菬謇漁@!雖然工序繁雜,不過效果絕對是值得的,豆腐有蛋的香味但沒有一般蛋豆腐那麼甜膩,入口即化,果然和外頭賣的不一樣。表面炸得香脆,咬下去還有聲音,配上咸得很樸實的蘸醬,是不可錯過的小菜。

 

+辛氏食禪

這是符合曉琪口味的健康食品,所以她第一次動筷就對這道菜“先下手為強”。吃了一口她就迫不及待地叫我吃,而且說明一定要和醬料吃,一副向我介紹好料的熱情。訪問進行的當兒,專業的曉琪一直在專心受訪,吃得不多,不過臨走之際,她又忍不住再吃了一塊過橋豆腐,可見這道菜的魅力。

 

 

 The beancurd used for this dish is not conveniently bought from the market

but specially made by the chef. 

The beancurd is deep fried till crispy on the outside then cooked in a special savoury sauce.

Winnie appears to love this healthy dish.

 

 

 

榴蓮糯米糍

也許你沒聽過這道菜,不過你絕對聽過它背後的師傅,他去年在地茂館推出榴蓮宴,轟動了全城。嫩黃的冰皮下,滿滿是師傅冷凍過的新鮮榴蓮肉餡料,咬下去滿口榴蓮香,不小心就吃上癮了。

 

+辛氏食禪

愛吃甜點的曉琪第一次吃榴蓮做的甜品,讓本來不特別愛吃榴蓮的她讚不絕口,驚訝于師傅去掉榴蓮腥味的手藝。她還不斷慫恿身邊的人都要吃。台灣來的助理執意不肯,因此從訪問開始到臨走前,都慘遭一直被曉琪“碎碎念”的命運。

 

 

Signature dessert of the restaurant.  Snowskin balls with durian filling. 

For one who is not especially passionate about durians,

Winnie is pleasantly surprised the chef is able to remove the pungent smell from the fruit.

She kept recommending the dessert to her colleague from Taiwan,

but unfortunately, her colleague simply would not bulge.

 

 

地茂蔥油雞

蔥油和蒜茸這對“最佳排擋”聯手打造出白斬雞的精彩。雞肉是很標準的幼滑,一點都不感覺油膩。漿料只用蔥油和蒜茸,沒有什麼複雜的“加分點”,反而讓味道更純粹,吃完之齒頰留香。

 

+辛氏食禪

曉琪說,這裡的港菜做得很地道!這道蔥油雞就是最好的例子,完全是傳統的港式風味,蔥蒜的比例恰到好處,就是很好吃就對了!

 

Boiled chicken eaten with a special sauce of garlic and onion oil.

Winnie finds this Hong Kong dish very authentic.

 

 

【2004-08/第172期优周刊】 

 

 

While in Singapore in early July 2004, Winnie received an invitation to be a food critic.  As they ate and chatted, Winnie shared that whenever she is in Hong Kong, she would try to make time to have a meal at the infamous Hong Kong-styled roadside hawker stall.  Even though she is a public figure, she wouldn't mind being spotted  at a roadside hawker stall simply because such hawker food simply tastes too good.

 

Winnie's typical diet is quite light.  As Winnie has problem of allergic skin, she went for some tests a few years back and the doctor advised her to avoid meat from four-legged animals.  So at the restaurant, she chose seafood and noodles.  Winnie recalled that when she was young, she used to eat home-made buns, noodles, dumplings prepared by her mother.  She also has acquired a taste for Indian food and shared with the reporter enthusiastically on the differences between Indian food in Singapore and the States.  And although she usually do not take spicy food, she would not miss  preserved green chili in vinegar served typically in cantonese restaurants.